After a very nice lunch at Enoteca Antica ("old winebar"), we followed our noses towards the river.
We passed Augustus Caesar's massive tomb, and the magnificently newly housed Altar of Peace. The new block of stone and glass replaces Mussolini's Italian theme park offering, and is the first modern building in Rome in almost 100 years, designed by an American (Richard Meier) and so obviously very contentious. But I thought it quite lovely, airy and light, displays the ancient altar well, and it will be even lovelier when the roadway beside is buried in a tunnel and a piazza will extend from the building to the river.
A bit of shopping (my favourite kind, dipping into shops as you pass them and finding the perfect little thing for the perfect person without too much trouble) and then we were ready for tartuffo at the place best known for it in Piazza Navona. While waiting for this delightfully chocolately, creamy concoction to be prepared (two of us were sharing) we ogled at the vast variety of gelato on display, colours like jewels. One of our party opted for a scoop of nutella and the other, being British, was transfixed by a flavour identified as 'zuppo inglesie'.
Having moved to Canada in part of escape the horrors of traditional British cuisine and being no slouch in the kitchen himself, he was a little disturbed at the imagine the name conjured in his imagination. English soup? Is that really the right translation? What flavour would that be? Some brown watery slop filled with overcooked root vegetables and too much salt? Not exactly inspiration for gelato! Being a courageous sort of chap (what Brit isn't when really tested?) he gave it a go. We all watched his face as he tested the first bit, then his eyes brightened and he exclaimed with some relief, "It's custard!"
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