Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Day 3 cont. - unknown jewel

It pays to read about a place before you go.  That's my story and I am sticking with it despite the looks I sometimes get at just how much research I do, but for me that's half the joy of travel, absorbing all I can about a place - it's history, geography, culture, and habits. 
That's not to say I travel with a rigid itinerary.  Nothing, but nothing is better than discovering someplace yourself - that perfect cafe, or shop or square or building that stays in your memory for the rest of your life and that no one else knows about.
 
But a little research does pay off.  I generally am able to hit the ground running, and find my way around easier and waste less time wondering what to do on any given day.

And this afternoon it paid off big time.  I had read about a small museum, the Galleria Doria Pamphilj, in a (largely) 17th century palace and art collection.  The entrance is right on on the busy via del Corso through a pretty courtyard, but you'd walk right past it if you didn't know it was there. 

The place is still owned and occupied by the family Doria Pamphilj who really came into prominence when a member became Pope Innocent X.  Many other family members became cardinals and politicians. 

The first half of the self-guided tour takes you through palace rooms that are decorated and laid out much as they were centuries ago and the second half contains the art collection which is pretty stunning.  Not quite Galleria Borghese stunning, but there are enough Caravaggios, Berninis and Raphaels to satisfy everyone.  There's also a magnificant and famous portrait of Pope Innocent X by Velazquez, commissioned by the Pope himself, who was rather shocked and perhaps a bit dismayed by how real the likeness was. 

There were all sorts of other odd gems, like a Bruegel (Elder) of a battle in Naples that illustrates vividly how some painters paint what they know and not exactly what they see, as Naples harbour looks like a cold northern European harbour and, if not for the great amount of details that prove otherwise, hints that Bruegel might not have even been there, the light is so wrong for the place.

The art collection is predominently displayed cheek by jowl along galleries that form a large square around the couryard below, with windows facing out to the afternoon sun and mirrors and chandeliers reflecting the copious giltwork. We were two of about 12 people we encountered in the entire 2 hours we were there - and we strolled at will, much as tourists 200 years ago much have done at the Uffizi or the Louvre. 

But the highlight by far for me was the autoguide, which was narrated by the Prince and Princess themselves, who not only gave wonderful descriptions and information about the palace and the art, but also their own personal reminiscences of having lived there as children.  I loved hearing the Prince talk about one floor decorated with gleaming red and yellow terracotta tiles.  He says that although machines now do the polishing, there was a time when it was all elbow grease, and he was soundly punished for riding around on his skateboard/roller skates!

They hold concerts here too, no doubt to help pay to keep the collection together and in the family.  Next time I come to Rome, that will be on my research list

Link to the Galleria doria Pamphilj:  http://www.doriapamphilj.it/ukhome.asp

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